Viking Jordan Extension - Moses Church and Madaba

This is part of an extended review of the Jordan Extension offered as part of the Viking Pharaohs and Pyramids cruise on the Nile. The introductory article to Jordan can be found here, and this episode covers the drive from the Dead Sea to Petra via the Moses Memorial Church and Madaba and on to arrive in Petra in the early evening.

We left at a reasonable time from the Movenpick resort and spa by the Dead Sea to drive across the somewhat barren landscape of this part of Jordan towards the mountaintop of Mount Nebo and the Moses Memorial Church. The road is windy, but the views from the window are great and both sides see the views as the coach heads round curve after curve up the mountains from the Dead Sea.

A panoramic view of a barren landscape in Jordan, showcasing rolling hills and winding roads against a backdrop of cloudy blue skies. — Stunning view of the barren landscape on the drive from the Dead Sea to Mount Nebo in Jordan.

We finally arrived in the mid-morning at Mount Nebo to a very windy and exposed hilltop. This famous mountain, at 2300 feet high, is said to be the point where Moses was shown the Holy Land and on a clearer day than the one we had, you can see right across the Jordan valley to the West Bank of Israel. The site is a mix of the religious and the historical, with museum buildings holding important mosaics discovered in the area and the newly restored Moses Memorial Church that itself holds some of the dramatic mosaics found on the site. The ancient church, a pilgrimage destination since the 4th century, was excavated between 1933 and 1938 by Sylvester Saller, bringing to light the basilica with its chapels and the annexes of the monastery. The exquisite mosaics were then covered back with soil for protection. Only in the 21st century was a complete building built over the old church and the mosaics and that finally opened in 2016.

Exterior view of the newly restored Moses Memorial Church at Mount Nebo, an important religious and historical site in Jordan.

The entrance holds another famous monument, the Book of Love among Nations sculpture by Vincenzo Bianchi which was erected following the visit of Pope John Paul II in 2000.

The Book of Love among Nations sculpture at Mount Nebo, a symbol of peace and unity, reflecting the historical significance of the site.

The Book of Love among Nations sculpture at the entrance of the Moses Memorial Church on Mount Nebo.

It didn’t strike me at the time that this was carved as a book with the pages torn (although I am sure our guide mentioned it!) and now I look at the photos I can see that!

Looking out over the land towards the Holy Land is also this sculpture known as Nehushtan or Brazen Serpent cross created by Paolo Fantoni.

A sculpture of the Brazen Serpent cross, created by Paolo Fantoni, situated on a hilltop in Jordan, with an olive tree and informational plaque nearby. — The Nehushtan or Brazen Serpent sculpture at Mount Nebo, a significant religious site for views over the Holy Land.

Inside the church building now are the magnificent mosaics that were once hidden for so long, with viewing platforms along the main edges of them to get the best view possible. This photo has been stretched and reshaped in Photoshop to give you an idea of what it would look like from above.

Intricate mosaic illustrating scenes with animals and figures, showcasing the artistic heritage found within the Moses Memorial Church at Mount Nebo. — Diakonikon Baptistery Mosaic on display in Moses Memorial Church Jordan

We were able to spend time here on our own to visit the various buildings (and the restrooms for free!) before rejoining our coach to continue our journey to Madaba.

This old city in Jordan has quite a bustling center and our first stop was the Byzantine church of Saint George at Madaba which also is attached to a school.

Exterior view of the Moses Memorial Church at Mount Nebo, featuring a stone facade with a bell tower and cross on top, surrounded by a gravel plaza. — The exterior view of the Byzantine church of Saint George in Madaba, known for its historical mosaics and significance in the Holy Land.

After a short presentation about the map we were about to see, we entered the church to see another beautiful mosaic at our feet.

The oldest cartographic mosaic map of the Holy Land exhibited at the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George in Madaba, Jordan, showcasing key biblical locations. — The oldest cartographic mosaic map of the Holy Land exhibited at the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George showcasing key biblical locations.

This is the oldest cartographic map of the Holy Land and shows immense and accurate detail of the main sites that were known and visited at that time, including, of course, Jerusalem and the Dead Sea

The intricate mosaic map depicting the Holy Land, located within the Byzantine church of Saint George in Madaba, Jordan.

Walking back through the town, we headed to a local restaurant for a Jordan speciality, a Maqluba. This is made in layers in a pot with chicken and seasoned rice and then turned upside down in the restaurant onto a large serving dish. Pretty delicious and more was available for second helpings. Wine and beer was available but as usual needed to be paid for.

A delicious serving of Maqluba, a traditional Jordanian dish made with layers of rice, chicken, and vegetables, presented at a local restaurant.

Back to the coach again to continue our journey to Petra, this time on a faster highway between Amman and Petra. But along the way, there was time for a quick stop to view another site – the Crusader castle known as Shonak Castle.

The Shonak Castle stands majestically on a hilltop, overlooking the surrounding landscape of Jordan.

There was no time to visit it as the sun was already beginning to set, but there was time to build a matching rock pile in the arid landscape.

A balanced rock pile in the arid landscape near Shonak Castle at sunset, evoking a sense of tranquility and nature.

By now the sun was pretty low in the sky and a dramatic sunset was developing, but we were too far away from Petra to make much of it photographically, although this was the view from our hotel, again the Movenpick, which was just adjacent to the entrance to Petra.